Let me tell you a little bit about myself, I have more than seven years experience has a professional custom framer. I have designed, (mats, layout, color, style) mounted and framed literally thousands and thousands of prints, photographs, paintings, keepsakes, or whatever. One thing I noticed being a framer is that a lot of artists don't know a whole lot about framing their art. So, coming from an experienced framer, allow me to share some general tips for framing and some do-it-yourself tips to help you save money and have a high quality framed piece of art. (It's really about 15 tips wrapped up into 5 topics). If these tips help you, think about digging the post at the end.
● Use an industrial staplegun as a cheap alternative to a point driver.
You might have heard of what is called a point driver. It's what shoots points into the back of the inside of the frame, sitting against the backing holding the art and glass in place against the lip of the frame. You don't need to spend the $75 a professional point driver might cost you, something that works just as well is a heavy duty staplegun or industrial staplegun available at your local hardware store. You just need to shoot the staples at a close angle so that they are secure but leaving enough room you can bend them a little bit. Also you can use the staplegun to secure your stretched canvas over stretcher bars, it's cheaper than buying pre-stretched canvas.
● Use archival materials.
Without getting into too much into detail (I'll leave that for another article), one material to definitely use is UV-protected glass. Normal 1/8" glass (the thickness used for framing) blocks only 40% of UV-rays, it doesn't matter if it's natural or artificial light. I can't tell you how many pictures I re-framed (thousands) that weren't even worth being re-framed because they were so badly faded, sometimes even only after a couple of years. Conservation glass or UV-protected glass will keep your art or print from fading, it blocks 99% of UV-rays. It's even available at Home Depot or most larger hardware stores. If it's a big piece, consider using UV plexi-glass. It's a lot cheaper to buy your glass at a hardware store than at a frame or glass shop, and make sure and ask them to cut it for you too. (Make sure you measure the exact size you need, within a 1/16th of an inch.)
● Use Open-Backed Frames.
Maybe you have heard of open-backed frames? There are several large retail chains (I'm not going to mention names) that sell these. It's just the frame itself with no glass and no backing. And at some of those retail chains you can use their 'percentage off one-item' coupon. I described what to do about glass above and for a backing you should use acid-free foamcore (about $15 for a 32 x 40" sheet from a frameshop, they should cut it for you at no charge, if they don't, you shouldn't do business there). Going this route will save you a ton of money versus paying the frameshop to do the whole thing.
● Frame to the Style of the Piece.
About the frame choice itself though; think about what style of art you are framing. For example - for a print from the renaissance era, maybe a fairly wide gold or silver frame with some carving in it. For a modern painting on canvas, maybe just pulled over stretcher bars and stapled on the back (not the sides), with no frame. For a landscape of the west I would choose a wooden frame with a nice stain with no or a minimal carving design in it. Just think about what it is you are framing and make appropriate choices. Some people frame to match a room, I suggest framing strictly for the art, who cares what room it's going in; a good frame job should last 50 years if not more. I always prefer wood to metal frames, metal frames are good for college students or something but not as long-term solutions to framing quality art.
● The Best Heavy Duty Glue: Liquid Nails.
This last suggestion is more of a general arts and crafts tool. It's called Liquid Nails, a super-duty awesome glue, found at craft and hardware stores. This stuff will seriously hold anything to anything else; metal, wood, glass, plastic, whatever you want to mount or fix permanently, you can use Liquid Nails. Hey if someone from Liquid Nails is reading this, you should send me some free because of the free advertising. But seriously this stuff is dependable and ridiculously strong, don't get it on your fingers. Framer tested: framer approved.
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2 comments:
Thanks for the important advice - I'm going to get some Liquid Nails for sure.
I do all the framing of my work and my wife's, though am by no means a professional. I usually get joined frames somewhere and do the rest myself.
One thing we've learned over the years is that, while it is great to frame each piece for it's style, it is also very expensive. We've tried to move more toward a standard frame, even standard size works of art, so that we can swap new pieces into those frames. I wish we sold all the art we produce, but alas, some that we invest in don't seem to move and being able to swap a new piece into a frame we alrready have is a real savings.
As a potential buyer, I'd almost rather buy the artwork unframed and make that selection myself because, as you say, it can make a real difference. As an artist, it's a dilemma how to frame economically.
I agree completely with you framing is crazy expensive. Standard sizes and materials is a great idea and method. Definitely the least expensive route, once you find quality low cost materials, stick with those. You can find great quality low-cost frames ready-made, that still match the art. I prefer to always have the artwork outshine the frame and mats of course. It's artists like you that paid my wage when I was a framer! thanks......
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